The Hike of Hikes - Part 2: The Descent

In my mind we always had the escape route if we didn't feel we could make it to the bottom and back. (That is, don't keep going to the bottom if you start to feel too worn out before you even get there since you still have to go back up.) However, we were pretty determined to do it. Thursday morning we woke up early, packed our bags (with lots of water, food, first aid, walkie talkies, etc.), and headed out. We arrived at the South Kaibab Trailhead and started down at 8am. Even though the sun had been up for almost 3 hours, it was a bit chilly as we began the descent.




The South Kaibab trail offers amazing, wide-open views. Like these:



And lots of cliffs:



Here I am beginning my descent down the trail. What a beautiful day for a hike!


The trail was steep and had lots of switchbacks, as we expected. The first point of interest on the map was called "Ooh Ah Point," almost a mile from the trailhead. It wasn't marked so we didn't even realize when we were there. We're pretty sure it's this rock we got our picture taken on, but we didn't decide that until a little while later. The only reason we stopped was because another group had stopped to take pictures and we thought it did look like a nice spot. Here we are:


The people that we saw stopped at the rock started at the trailhead at the same time we did. They hurried down the trail with one guy saying, "Let's go! We've got 16 miles ahead of us!" Apparently they were doing the same hike we were! We kept pace with them somewhat, passing and being passed by the group every now and then. They all looked really in shape, so we figured if we kept pace with them, we were doing pretty well. We referred to them simply as "Our Friends." This is the only picture I have of Our Friends. (Although they can be seen in the background of a few others.) I don't know what that guy is doing with his poles.


I mentioned the guide books that we bought. It had a short snippet about every major point along the trail and some other random facts. I kept trying to read it while I was hiking, then realized that didn't work very well -- unless I wanted to trip.


First major stop on the map was called Cedar Point, 1.5 miles below the trailhead. It was a welcomed sight, and we were pleased with our pace. It took us just under 45 minutes to get there, which meant we were going about 2 mph. That sounds slow, but I kept stopping to take pictures too.



We continued our descent down. One of the most interesting things about this hike was how often the landscape seemed to change. It was like being on a new hike every two hours. The color of the rocks changes (and hence the color of the trail -- notice how its color in the pictures below compares to the pictures at the beginning), the vegetation changes, the views change. The canyon walls get higher, the river gets closer (once you are actually able to see the river!). The trail starts off with steep switchbacks, hits a plateau for a little bit, then more steep switchbacks all the way to the bottom.






Skeleton Point was our next checkpoint. (Another 1.5 miles, we made it there in about 35 minutes, a bit faster! Probably because I was taking fewer pictures.) The trailbook we had said that Skeleton point was named such because of the steep trails below it and several mules had fallen off, and bones were found years later. (I don't know anymore about the story.) Yikes! This was the furthest "suggested" day hike point on South Kaibab trail, 3 miles down from the trailhead. But we had another 3.5 to go before we reached the river!



Not long after skeleton point, we saw the river for the first time!! It was very exciting.


If you don't want to hike to the bottom of the Grand Canyon on foot, you can ride a mule. (But just remember you have to book it about 12 months in advanced -- in other words, walking down and calling a mule taxi for the hike back doesn't work.) Although there was plenty of...uh...evidence of mules on the trail, it took awhile before we saw them. The first mule train we saw was just carrying supplies, but then we saw some with people too. Mules have the right of way, so you have to stand to the side and let them pass. After awhile Michelle and I decided riding a mule might be scarier, as you'd have no control over whether or not you fall over the edge.




This mileage sign indicates we're about halfway there! The trail and scenery continued to change (notice the color is more white again), and it plateaued out slightly before really "plunging" down again.





Our first view of the bridge! The bridge down there marks the end of the trail. That meant we were getting closer! But still had a ways to go... (and you can see the trail still to be covered as well)


The canyon walls are getting higher as we are getting lower.




Another shot with the bridge. We're getting so close! (Also note that the trail is white again.)


Catching a really nice breeze. It felt great!


It's a different view looking up from the Grand Canyon than looking down.


The bridge again...we are so close.


We made it to the tunnel! Just through this is the bridge...we made it!!


Me at the end of the tunnel and the start of the bridge.



This means the end of the South Kaibab Trail, and the end of our descent into the Grand Canyon. It was about 6.5 miles of steep, downhill trail, and it took us 3.5 hours. Our next task was to make our way over to the other bridge (you can see it in the shot of me catching a breeze, a few pictures up) that leads to the Bright Angel Trail, find a place to eat lunch, rest a bit (especially stretch!), and then get ready to the next stretch of our journey! The hard part is about to begin....UPHILL 9.5 miles.